Day 258 (March 6): Ninh Binh

Eons ago (another decade, in fact) on another continent, several people who heard we were going to Vietnam responded with the same exclamation: "Ninh Binh!" So when our Hanoi tour guide asked if there was anything else we wanted to do with the remainder of our time in Vietnam, the answer was obvious.  Our advisors were right, this is a spectacular place. Our guide, having just led us to Halong Bay, told us to expect "Halong Bay of the Land" and he was also vindicated.

A two-hour bus ride brought us to our first stop, a temple dedicated to an early (the first?) emperor of Vietnam. A mural at the entrance depicted his ascent, mainly as a very young leader of an army/militia that united the region's factions/kingdoms. Ninh Binh was his home and he made it the capital, which remained for about fifty years (968-1009) until one of his successors moved it to Hanoi.

The pinnacles/buttes that dot the landscape, much as they did in Halong Bay, provided a strong defense against enemies and the fertile soil surely supported agriculture then just as it does now.

Our second stop involved about 500 stairs to reach the top of a peak whose name is uncertain to me but could be Lying Dragon, Flying Dragon or Ngoa Long. Whatever it's called, the kids all marched up and down (and safely!) and the views made it all worthwhile.

In the beginning...

Steep!

The very top

Back at the bottom...still feeling the love.

Our lunch break was surprisingly in the home of a local family that our guide and his company support. Our host is 81 years old and moved to the countryside a few years ago after a heart attack. He is a veteran of the American War and while I understand that being a gracious host is now his source of income, I still feel a pang of awe that he generously welcomes American tourists into his home for meals. He was especially sweet to the twins, as so many hosts have been in Vietnam.

After lunch our last agenda item was a boat trip nearby. We really didn't know what to expect except that our guide had told us that there was a cave. First of all, the small boats can carry 2 or 3 passengers. Second of all, even though they look like row boats and the operator immediately grabs the oars with her/his hands, you immediately notice something bizarre: the boats are being rowed with feet! Third, the scenery is spectacular.

Rowing with the feet while holding an umbrella and a smartphone. Naturally.

Then there were the caves. The longest was probably about 150 meters long, which was enough to get really dark. The ceilings are only 1-2 meters above the water. Because the ride was out and back, we got to see each (there were three) twice.

We also enjoyed quite a bit of wildlife. We saw fishermen but no fish. We saw a lot of birds. We also saw some goats high on the hillsides. It was enough to keep us fascinated.

Birds at rest

There are three goats. Trust me.

Birds in flight!

Not wildlife, exactly, but two Wild Ronchelli's

Finally, I succumbed to Cate's incessant demand to paddle.

It was an incredible day and I'm so glad we went, which means I'm so grateful to our friends who recommended it, to Chinh for guiding us and for the several organizations and individuals who hosted us throughout.